
I attended one dinner during the Vancouver International Wine Festival this year, courtesy of the Festival. It was with Maison Chapoutier at L’Abattoir. It was a truly spectacular evening with Mr. James Leonardo De Sá from M. Chapoutier telling us about the winery and the wines we enjoyed that evening. Did you know that Canada represents Chapoutier’s largest market outside of France? Let me tell you a little about M. Chapoutier before getting into the dinner details.
About M. Chapoutier
M. Chapoutier, established in 1808, represents one of the most significant legacies in the Rhône Valley’s viticultural history. Under the leadership of Michel Chapoutier, who took control in the late 1980s, the estate transitioned from traditional blending to focus on single-plot (parcellaire) wines and biodynamic farming. This shift was initially met with scepticism but has since garnered Michel many awards for his wines. 95% of their vineyards are now biodynamic. Michel’s Fac & Spera Le Pavillon Ermitage 1991 was his first biodynamic wine to win an international award.
The estate’s philosophy prioritizes terroir-driven wines over a consistent house style, utilizing low-intervention techniques to allow vintage and soil characteristics to predominate. By reducing human interference, avoiding added sugars or heavy-handed cellar techniques, the wine becomes a pure picture of the land. Michel’s philosophy is that a winemaker should be an observer, not a stylist.

- With an “H” (Hermitage): Indicates a blend of multiple parcels to achieve balance and complexity.
- Without an “H” (Ermitage): Indicates a single-plot (parcellaire) wine, focusing on the unadulterated expression of one specific location.
The Menu
This evening’s menu showing the food and wine pairings. Some dishes had paired two wines. The white wines were all made from the Marsanne grape, while the red wines, excluding the dessert wine, was made from Syrah grapes.
Amuse-bouche
Crab tartlet, with nuoc cham gelée, herbs
La Muse De RW St-Peray 2017
First course
Roasted scallops, with creamed leek, apple, beurre blanc
Chante-Alouette 2018
Fac & Spera Les Granits St Joseph Blanc 2022
Second Course
Smoked pork jowl, with kohlrabi, jalapeno onion relish
Monier de la Sizeranne 2021
Fac & Spera Neve Côte Rotie Rouge 2022
Third Course
Beef striploin, with short rib, celeriac, natural jus
Fac & Spera Le Pavillon Ermitage 2022
Dessert
Chocolate fondant bar, with passion fruit gel
Spécialités Banyuls 2021




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for this wine. Both wines with their intensity of fruit flavours complemented the sweet and smoky flavour of the smoked pork jowl.



This was the best pairing of he evening. I enjoyed the soft texture and deep beef flavour of the striploin and how it went with the sweet fruit flavours in the wine.
The evening concluded with a sweet departure to the Roussillon for a Banyuls. This Vin Doux Naturel is made using a vintage style, reductive aging that preserves the fresh, vibrant Grenache fruit, making it a sublime partner for chocolate. It served as a reminder of the “M” empire’s global reach, expanding Michel’s single-plot philosophy into Burgundy, Alsace, Spain, Portugal, and Australia. The Spécialités Banyuls 2021 had a light, sweet dark berry fruit nose. Medium-minus body with a light mouthfeel. Medium sweetness. Blackberries and light pepperiness on the palate. Medium-plus acidity and light tannins. The Chocolate Fondant Bar was layered, reminding me a bit of the smoked pork jowl, but this time with layers of chocolate. It was creamy, with lots of dark chocolate flavour and a nice crunchy crust for texture. Again, a complementary pairing with the sweet blackberry fruit from the wine and the dark chocolate flavour and creaminess from the chocolate fondant bar.
I tried to not put my rating scale on most of the wines as this is a food and wine pairing meal, meant for enjoyment, but two of the wines were truly exceptional and I needed to put a rating on them for you.
This was truly a spectacular meal. Thank you to Executive Chef, Jasper Cruickshank, and his staff, at L’Abbatoir for putting together these delicious dishes for us to enjoy. Thank you for Vins Philippe Dandurand Wines for being the importer of M. Chapoutier wines and arranging for this dinner as part of the Vancouver International Wine Festival. You can purchase many M. Chapoutier wines at BC Liquor stores and other private wine shops.














