Growing up in the warm, vineyard-lined landscapes of southern Ukraine, just inland from the Black Sea, Gary (Gennadi) Zhygailo was immersed in the rhythms of the vine from an early age. His passion for wine led him to the Odessa National Academy of Food Technologies, where he earned both a Bachelor’s in Food Science and a Master’s in Fermentation and Winemaking Technology. Gary began his career at one of Ukraine’s largest wineries, advancing from cellar hand to assistant winemaker, and eventually to cellar manager, gaining experience with a range of grape varieties and wine styles unique to his region.
Beyond production, Gary also worked as an oenologist and technical sales representative for international wine equipment suppliers, giving him insight into both the science and business of winemaking. In 2016, he moved to Canada, joining Chaberton Estate Winery in Langley, BC, as a cellar assistant. His talent and dedication saw him rise to the role of winemaker by 2019, where he now crafts wines that reflect both the terroir of the Fraser Valley and his Old World training.
Gary’s story is one of blending tradition with new opportunities, rooted in the vineyards of Ukraine, yet thriving in the wine community of British Columbia. In this interview, we explore his journey from the Black Sea to the BC West Coast, his approach to winemaking, and his reflections on the challenges facing his homeland today.
My Interview with Gary Zhygailo
You grew up in southern Ukraine near the Black Sea, surrounded by vineyards. Can you tell me about your earliest memories that sparked your interest in winemaking?
Unlike a family tradition, the Gary’s interest in winemaking was “accidentally” sparked. While everybody has little vineyards in southern Ukraine and makes home wine, his parents and grandparents were not professional winemakers.
How did you choose to get your degrees in Food Science and Fermentation & Winemaking Technology, and your subsequent experience working at one of Ukraine’s largest wineries?
Gary pursued a food science degree with a winemaking as his major, and later a master’s degree in winemaking from a university in Odessa. This coincided with a period of rapid growth in the Ukrainian wine industry starting around 1998, with new wineries emerging, particularly in southern Ukraine and Crimea. This created a demand for professionals, leading to Gary being hired directly by wineries while still in university.
Gary fell in love with winemaking, finding it exciting and describing it as a kind of art, which I can agree. You can give the same grapes to different winemakers and they will all produce different wines.
He worked for 12 years in the Ukrainian wine industry, starting as a cellar hand and progressing to cellar manager at a winery for six years. He then transitioned into sales and consulting, selling equipment and products like yeast and enzymes.
What are the main grape varieties grown in your home region?
I found out from Gary that in Ukraine more white produced rather than red wines. Mostly European varieties are grown: Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. He noted that Aligoté is also a popular varietal used for both still and sparkling wines. They also grow Rkatsiteli, which is a native Georgian grape variety.
Talking about native grapes to Ukraine, Gary mentioned, Sukholimanskii, a cross between Chardonnay and Plavay, and Odessa Black a red hybrid variety. Odessa Black has both black skin and coloured pulp, which is unique as the pulp from most grapes are clear. The only other grape variety, I (Karl), know that has coloured pulp is Dornfelder.
What motivated you to move from Ukraine to Canada, and was winemaking part of that plan from the beginning?
Gary’s primary motivation was to find a more stable environment and better future for his children due to the political situation in Ukraine at the time, which had a different president that was influenced by the Russian government. The immigration process took about two years, with permanent residency secured before arriving in Canada. Gary and his family arrived in Winnipeg due to its strong Ukrainian community and existing friends, where they stayed for six months. They then moved to Abbotsford in August 2016 after Gary received an offer from Chaberton Estate Winery.
Your first role at Chaberton Estate Winery was as a cellar assistant in 2016. What were your first impressions of BC wine and vineyards compared to Ukraine?
The most striking initial impression in the Fraser Valley was that there was so much rain in 2016, especially in September. He was really impressed with BC winemaking regionally due to its vast differences. Fraser Valley is distinct from Okanagan for example which has completely different terroirs, different climate zones. Everything is different. Gary noted that specifically the Fraser Valley has a really short ripening season compared to where he made wine in Ukraine. He also encountered new grape varieties like Bacchus and Siegerrebe, which offered new learning opportunities.
A key difference in Fraser Valley winemaking, Gary mentioned, is that you don’t always pick by sugar content by sugar level. Grapes can reach “technical ripeness” with “lower brix” (sugar levels), as opposed to Ukraine and the Okanagan, where higher sugar content is crucial for ripeness. This required adjustment in his winemaking techniques. When he joined Chaberton he was not the head winemaker, but learned about how to handle these grape varieties from the previous head winemaker at that time.
Which grape varieties or wine styles in BC have been most exciting for you to work with?
Gary mentioned that he really likes Syrah, considering the South Okanagan (Oliver) as one of the best regions for this variety. He is also impressed with the Bacchus grape in the Fraser Valley, noting that it could be the main white grape variety for the region. He also noted he liked Viognier, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Okanagan.
I also learned that the winery also grows Zweigelt, a red hybrid grape, a cross between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, from Austria. Gary made it into a rosé wine in the past, but have recently decided to produce it as a red varietal wine. It is barrel fermented, and the 2023 vintage was just released for sale. Gary noted that it is a spicy wine. Might be a good wine to try with some sweet BBQ (Karl).
The winery has also been growing Siegerrebe for a while, and have made it into a sparkling wine, frizzante style. They have plans this harvest to make a traditional method sparkling wine.
Lastly, Gary noted that the climate has been changing in the Fraser Valley with it being much hotter and drier, which might allow for growing new varieties.
How has the ongoing Russian attack on Ukraine personally affected you?
Gary still has family living in Ukraine. Luckily, his family are all okay, but they are not too far from the front line. His family and others had to adjust to the constant presence of drones and sirens. So the new normal for the moment. The Ukrainian forces stopped the Russian advance at his hometown and pushed back the Russian soldiers. Gary was shocked and experienced sleeplessness when the war started, particularly because their family is in the south of Ukraine, a heavily attacked region. I was affected as well since my heritage, through my grandparents, is also from Ukraine.
From your perspective, what can individuals in Canada do to meaningfully support the Ukrainian people?
Gary felt a need to help rather than sitting here comfortably in Canada, and co-founded a volunteering group, RIY Vancouver, with friends. This group focuses on buying medical supplies and drones for Ukraine. They avoid large organizations like the Red Cross, which he mentioned that he did not hear about any relief coming directly to any Ukrainian soldiers. He mentioned that the Red Cross opened an office in Russia during the war, which does not make any sense to him or to me. Gary’s group works directly with medics and the armed forces to ensure aid goes directly to them and does not get lost somewhere in bureaucracy. You can make a single donation or a monthly donation to directly support the Ukrainian soldiers via RIY Vancouver.
Chaberton Estate Winery has been supportive, providing wine and the winery venue for fundraising events for Gary’s volunteering group. I applaud Gary and his friends for their initiative, and to Chaberton Estate Winery for their support.
