Did you know that Canada is a very important market for French, Bourgogne, wines? We are the third largest market in volume and sixth largest market in term of value. The Canadian Bourgogne market is weighted toward white wines, particularly from Chablis. Our seminar today introduced us to some Bourgogne wine regions that we may not have much familiarity, but offer great value.
Our educator today was Mr. Mark Shipway. He started by quickly reminding us of the Bourgogne appellations with 33 Grand Cru AOCs at the top of the quality pyramid, followed by 44 Village AOCs, and then 7 Regionale AOCs. This Regionale tier is relatively unknown but offers great value, as Mark showed us in this seminar. Within this tier is the “Regionale appellations plus geographical denomination” which is made of seven regions that give more specificity to the wines:
- Bourgogne
- Bourgogne Aligote
- Cremant de Bourgogne
- Coteaux bourguignons
- Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains
- Mâcon
- Bourgogne Mousseux
Pinot Noir is the main variety for red and rosé wines and Chardonnay is the main variety for white wines. These regions require reduced yields and must have higher sugar levels before grapes can be harvested, which leads to higher alcoholic strength in the wine and a premium segment within the Regionale tier.
Bourgogne’s wines have been taking up environmental responsibility. They acknowledge the challenges of climate change and social responsibility. In June 2023, the Bourgogne wine industry set itself the ambitious target of becoming carbon-neutral by 2035 with a 60% reduction in green house gas emissions and strategy for offsetting residual emissions. They put forward, “Objectif Climate”, action plan which will take 38 major initiatives focusing on key areas to help achieve the objectives relating to packaging, freight, travel, energy, etc.
We started the seminar by tasting two mystery wines; one white and one red wine and had to guess the quality tier that these wines belonged. Both wines were Regionale appellations plus geographical denomination and surprised us with their quality. The first wine is from the named region, Mâcon-Pierreclos while the second wine came from the region Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits. The Regionale wines grow in area and can increase in quality over time, with some of the wineries moving up a tier into Village AOC. The wines from this tier are accessible to drink as soon as they are purchased and opened, and accessible in pricing as they are not yet as widely known. So look for these regions when you are next in your local wine shop.
The Wines We Tasted and My Tasting Notes
Domaine Marc Jambon et Fils, Mâcon-Pierreclos, Le Carruge, 2022 (mystery wine) – A relatively new winery founded in 1996, this winery is certified as having High Environmental Value (HVE3). The wine is made from Chardonnay grapes that are fermented with indigenous yeasts in new 500-liter barrels followed by malolactic fermentation. Aging for 12 months in oak barrels. This wine has a bright lemon colour. Ripe pineapple and toast aromas. Dry with a medium-minus body. Butterscotch, pineapple and apple, and sweet spices on the palate.
Domaine Philippe Gavignet Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Clos des Dames Huguette, 2022 (mystery wine) – This winery has been in the Gavignet family for 5 generations. They use sustainable farming practices and are certified HVE3. This Pinot Noir wine has a medium intensity, clear garnet colour. Light candied red cherry and tart cherry aromas. Medium-minus body, smooth and lightly round mouthfeel. Medium acidity. Red cherries on the palate with touches of sweet cherries, floral and sweet spices. Lighter tannins.
Domaine Guilhem et Jean-Huges Goisot Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, Biaumont, 2022 – This is the northernmost region, a cooler region, near Chablis. Wine is made from Chardonnay grapes. This winery is Ecocert certified as well as Demeter certified. The wine has a medium-plus intensity, bright lemon colour. Medium intensity aromas of honey, butterscotch and pineapple. Medium acidity with light flavours of sweet spices, pineapple, citrus and crisp apple. A medium length with a touch of pepperiness at the very end. An elegant wine. 
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Maison Auvigue, Macon-La Roche-Vineuse, 2022 – This winery is in a more southern, warmer location. Wine made from Chardonnay grapes. Cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks using indigenous yeasts. Underwent a secondary malolactic fermentation. Aged for 6 months on lees. It has a medium-plus intensity lemon colour. With a pronounced ripe tropical fruit nose. Medium-plus body, smooth, thicker mouthfeel. Ripe pineapple, apple, and butterscotch flavours. Medium acidity. A touch of grape stem tannins. –
Domaine Michel Sarrazin et Fils, Bourgogne Cote Chalonnaise, Charnailles, 2022 – Made from Pinot Noir grapes. A deeper dull garnet colour. It is quite aromatic, showing red fruit, sweet spices and oak aromas. Medium to medium-plus body, smooth mouthfeel. Fresh red fruits, Old World oak, floral, sweet spices and sweet cherries flavours. Round mouthfeel, but not mouth filling. Light tannins. Medium length with some pepperiness on the finish. The tannins also get a little firmer on the finish. –
Domaine du Chateau de Messey, Macon-Cruzille, Clos des Avoueries, cuvee Les Pierres Rouges, 2022 – Made with Chardonnay grapes. Manual harvest. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless tanks and barrels. This regionale appellation mainly produces white wines. This wine has a medium intensity bright, lemon colour. Medium-plus intensity ripe, bruised apple nose with a touch of sweet spices. Medium-plus body, with a smooth, round mouthfeel. Pineapple and bruised apple flavours, along with oak and sweet spices. The wine has fresh flavours. Medium-plus length with some drying tannins on the finish.
Domaine du Clos du Roi, Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse, cuvee Tradition, 2022 – This region is near Chablis. The wine is made with Pinot Noir grapes. Vinified in underground tanks and aged 12 months in 4400-litre oak barrels. This wine has a medium-minus intensity translucent garnet colour. Light aromas of red fruits, sweet spices and a touch of herbal. Dry with medium body and a lean, thin mouthfeel. Light cherries and herbaceousness on the palate. Medium tannins. Medium length. A straight forward wine.
Domaine Alain Jeanniard, Bourgogne Cote d’Or, 2022 – Made with Pinot Noir grapes. No use of pesticides, herbicides or chemical fertilizers in the vineyard. Manual harvesting. Vinified in concrete tanks with native yeasts. Aged for 12 months in 500-liter barrels. This wine has a deeper, lightly dull garnet colour. Lighter candied cherry nose. Dry, medium-plus body with a firmer tannic structure. Medium-plus acidity. Deeper flavours of red cherries, along with some candied cherries and floral. Medium length. –
Thank you, Merci, to the Bourgogne Wine Board for providing me a seat for this informative seminar.
