How to Enjoy the Sweeter White Wines of Bordeaux Seminar

How often do you drink white Bordeaux wines? Do you know that they range from bone dry to lusciously sweet? Do you know which grape varieties go into white Bordeaux wines? I recently attended a seminar at L’Abbatoir in Gastown, covering these wines and some ideas for wine pairings that was hosted by Wines of Bordeaux.   Our speaker was Emma Baudry who has been working with the Wines of Bordeaux for over 20 years.  She noted that all ten of the white Bordeaux wines that we tasted during the seminar are from wineries that do not yet have representation in BC.  So, if you are a wine agent in BC and are interested in adding white Bordeaux wines to your portfolio, these were all very good quality wines.  It should be noted that the Canadian market, remains a primary destination for exports.

Introduction to the Contemporary Landscape of White Bordeaux

In the grand hierarchy of global viticulture, Bordeaux is often reduced to its legendary red blends, yet the true technical vanguard of the region lies in its white production. While red wine dominates 85% of the vineyard area, white Bordeaux represents 11%, a figure that belies its strategic importance. This rarity creates a distinct value proposition: these are not merely alternatives to reds, but wines of top quality

Historical Evolution from Sweet Whites to Dry Reds

The Art and Science of Production: Harvesting and Fermentation

• Vessel Type: While oak provides vanilla and structure, many modern specialists utilize concrete tanks. These tanks imaintain a dryness and a brightness that reflects the pure limestone terroir.  
• Aging Duration: Premium botrytized wines typically require 18 months of aging (often in new oak) to integrate their complex sugars, while lighter styles may rest for 9 months to preserve their primary fruit.  Emma also noted that barrel aging brings out the peach aromas faster than aging in stainless steel tanks.
• Assemblage: Complexity is achieved through the art of the blend. Different vineyard parcels are fermented separately and blended only after the fermentation is complete to ensure a balanced, multi-dimensional final profile.

 Botrytis Cinerea: The Mechanics of Concentrated Sweetness

World-class sweet Bordeaux is the result of a strategic biological partnership with Botrytis cinerea, or “Noble Rot.” This micro-fungus is a volatile ally; it requires the morning mists of the rivers and the dry afternoons of the autumn sun. The fungus thins the grape skin, turning the fruit a distinct violet color and dehydrating the berry. This is not merely about “sugar”; it is about an organoleptic transformation that develops notes of exotic spices, apricots, and honey.

Emma’s Wine Comments and My Wine Tasting Notes

Made with 100% Semillon grapes, fermented in concrete.  Medium lemon colour.  Light stone fruit nose.  Dry, medium body with a lean mouthfeel.  Tart citrus and apple flavours.  Small, biting bubbles.  A touch of bitterness. –

80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon.  Pale lemon color.  Medium itensity aromas of pine needles that continued to the palate.  Dry, medium-minus body with a lean mouthfeel.  Medium length. –

3. Château Ballan Larquette 2020, Bordeaux – This estate features a unique soil profile of clay and gravel at the summit, where owner Chantal employs a “no-oak” regimen in underground concrete tanks to preserve the varietal purity of the blend. Historically significant, the estate is linked to Mr. Lamadak (Cadillac), the founder of Detroit, whose legacy is celebrated through this traditional, concrete-aged expression.

60% Savuginon and 40% Semillon.  A light lemon colour.  Light honey and apricot aromas.  Light body, semi-sweet.  Soft and smooth mouthfeel.  Medium-minus acidity.  Apricots and honey on the palate.  Very tasty.

4. Château du Cros 2022, Loupiac – This wine represents an intensive viticultural effort, requiring five separate harvest passes to select only the most perfectly botrytized berries. Following selection, 18 months of maturation in new oak imparts a sophisticated spice and vanilla structure that complements its concentrated sweetness.

90% Semillon, 5% Sauvignon Blanc, and 5% Muscadelle. A deep golden colour.  Medium intensity, deep, rich aromas of dried stone fruits and honey.  Medium-plus sweetness.  Smooth, soft, thicker mouthfeel. Sweet spices and dried stone fruits, plus some nuttiness on the palate.

5. Château Lagrange – l’Enclos 2024, Bordeaux – Sharing the same lineage as the Crémant, this dry white expression demonstrates significant structural evolution and an aging potential of approximately five years. The winemaking emphasizes a precise, still-wine profile that contrasts with its sparkling sibling, offering a broader textural experience on the mid-palate.

60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Semillon.  A light lemon colour.  Light citrus, grapefruit, and salty minerality on the nose.  Dry, light body with a smooth, lean mouthfeel.  Apricot with touches of butterscotch, oak and nuttiness on the palate.  A wine with a light touch.

6. Château Bel Air – Night Owl 2023, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux – Designed to appeal to a modern palate, this “gateway” sweet wine arrests fermentation through rapid cooling to maintain a vibrant residual sugar level of 38-45g/L. The result is a fresh, exotic fruit profile that prioritizes accessibility and primary aromatics over heavy oak influence.

100% Semillon.  Light lemon colour.  Medium intensity aromas of citrus, green fruit, and salty minerality.  Light body, semi-sweet, with a soft mouthfeel.  Medium acidity.  Light arpricot and honey flavours.  Medium-plus length.

100% Semillon.  A deeper apricot colour in the glass.  This wine has a touch of botrytis, but mostly is made from overripe grapes.  It hasa light intensity, dried apricot nose.  Medium sweetness. A thicker, smooth mouthfeel.  Medium acidity.  Rich honey and apricot flavours.  Medium plus length. –

8. Château Fayau 2014, Cadillac – Hailing from the Cadillac appellation, this 2014 vintage showcases the remarkable evolution of botrytized fruit over a decade of aging. The secondary characteristics have begun to emerge, offering a glimpse into the longevity and aromatic transformation inherent to the region’s traditional sweet wines.

90% Semillon, 5% Sauvignon Blanc, and 5% Muscadelle.  Medium intensity aromas of floral and apricots.  Medium-plus body with a smooth, thicker mouthfeel.  Medium acidity and sweetness.  Ripe apricots and dried apricots on the palate.  Medium-plus to a long length. –

9. Domaine de Pineau cuvée séduction 2016, Cérons – This cuvée highlights the elegance of the Cérons appellation, a small enclave known for its specific limestone terroir. The “séduction” profile focuses on a harmonious balance, where the limestone-driven acidity cuts through the sugar to provide a clean, lifted finish.

100% Semillon.  A deeper apricot colour.  Light apricot aroma along with ginger.  Light body, dry with ginger and apricots on the palate.  Medium acidity.

80% Semillon, 18% Sauvignon Blanc, and 2% Muscadelle.  A deeper apricot colour in the glass.  Light apricot and oak aromas.  Fuller body with medium sweetness.  Ripe apricots and light woodiness on the palate.  Medium-plus length.

Emma noted that as the industry faces a younger demographic that consumes less alcohol and seeks unconventional pairings, producers are experimenting with diverse vinification styles, such as the use of concrete tanks over oak, and exploring new culinary applications ranging from seafood to spicy cuisines.  Which is why one of our pairings are oysters on the half shell paired with sweet Bordeaux white wines.

We were last served a cocktail digestif made with Domaine des Rochers 2018, Loupiac, orange wedge, and sparkling water.  No food pairing.  It was just meant to cleanse our palate after our filling lunch.  The cocktail was refreshing, with light body and had the scent of orange.

Thank you to the Vins de Bordeaux for inviting me to this seminar as well as to L’Abbatoir for their delicious food pairings.