Chianti Classico: Digging into the Region’s UGA Masterclass

I was honoured to attend the Chianti Classico: Digging into the Region’s UGA Masterclass lead by Michaela Morris. The masterclass, hosted by the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, focused on the region’s evolution, particularly the introduction of the Gran Selezione category and the newly established Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGAs). The presentation highlighted the historical significance of the region, the hierarchical structure of Chianti Classico wines, recent changes to regulations, and a detailed exploration of several UGAs, including their unique geographic, geological, and climatic characteristics, and the wines they produce. Let me get into the details.

Chianti Classico: A Dynamic Denomination with a Rich History

Chianti Classico is heralded as “probably one of the world’s most dynamic wine regions or denominations,” owing to its spirit of constant evolution. This historic region, nestled in the heart of Tuscany, has a deep-rooted tradition of vine cultivation that traces back to Etruscan times, around the 10th century BC. A defining moment in its timeline occurred in 1716 when Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici formally delimited the boundaries of the Chianti region, making it the very first legally recognized wine region in the world. Fast-forward to 1924, when 33 pioneering winegrowers united to form the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, Italy’s first consortium dedicated to safeguarding and promoting their wines. In 2024, this milestone body celebrated its 100 year anniversary. Unifying these wines under one unmistakable emblem, the Black Rooster has emerged as a very strong collective trademark, instantly recognizable and symbolizing authenticity and place for Chianti Classico lovers.

The Chianti Classico Pyramid 

Michaela then briefly talked about the Chianti Classico Pyramid. Chianti Classico wines are structured into three distinct tiers, each representing a step-up in complexity, aging, and prestige. At the base of the quality pyramid lies Annata, often described as the “foundation” of Chianti Classico. While the term Annata does not officially appear on labels, it denotes wines that are typically released after at least one year of aging and make up about 55% of total production. Moving up, we encounter Riserva, which requires a minimum of 24 months of aging and reflects greater depth and structure. This category represents approximately 40% of the region’s output. Sitting at the pinnacle is Gran Selezione, a category introduced in 2014 to showcase the finest expressions of Chianti Classico terroir. These wines undergo at least 30 months of aging, including a mandatory three months in bottle before release, and account for just 5% of production. 

Gran Selezione and UGAs

The Gran Selezione category, introduced in 2014, marked a significant milestone in the Chianti Classico denomination, offering a new level of quality to highlight the finest expressions of the region. Originally, like all Chianti Classico wines, Gran Selezione was required to contain a minimum of 80% Sangiovese, with up to 20% of other permitted grape varieties, both indigenous and international. However, recent regulatory changes, set to take effect with the 2027 vintage, raises the bar even higher. Gran Selezione wines must now be composed of at least 90% Sangiovese, and international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah are no longer allowed in the blend. Instead, only eight approved indigenous grapes, like Canaiolo and Colorino, may make up the remaining 10%.  Many Gran Selezione wines that I have tasted in the past and in this masterclass are made with 100% Sangiovese grapes.

The latest evolution in Gran Selezione is the definition of Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive, or UGAs, into wine labelling.  As of the 2027 vintage, producers may now indicate the name of a UGA on the label, if at least 85% of the grapes come from that specific area. This option is exclusive to Gran Selezione wines, setting the top-tier wines apart not just in quality but in geographic specificity.  Rather than being defined by administrative communes, scientific subzones, or single-vineyard crus, these 11 “additional geographical units” reflect both natural influences, such as soil, altitude, and microclimate, and human factors like cultural traditions and local producer networks.  UGAs are not a quality hierarchy, but a tool to express regional distinction. While eight UGAs are already active, three, Montefioralle, Lamole, and Vagliagli, remain “in waiting,” giving those producers until 2027 to decide whether to embrace their UGA designation or align under a broader area, such as Greve. To date there are 187 estates producing Gran Selezione wines under 245 different labels.

Geographic and Soil Influences on Grapes

The undulating hills of Chianti Classico are more than just scenic. They play a crucial role in shaping the region’s microclimates and the character of its wines. Higher altitude vineyards benefit from cooler temperatures, which help preserve acidity and freshness in the grapes, while the outer edges of the region tend to be hotter, influencing ripening and concentration. Three major ridge systems define the valleys and slopes where vines are cultivated, adding layers of complexity to the growing conditions, according to Michaela. One runs along the eastern edge of the Chianti Classico region, Monte del Chianti, almost from top to bottom. There is a smaller parallel ridge located on the south western side and then a transverse ridge between the two other ridges. 

The diversity of soils adds yet another dimension to the wines of Chianti Classico. At higher elevations, Macigno, a non-calcareous sandstone, produces wines with a finer structure and a paler hue, lending grace and delicacy to the glass. Alberese, a marl rich in limestone and found at lower altitudes, is responsible for wines with firm structure and a vibrant, tangy character that amplifies fruit expression. Galestro is not a true soil but rather a mix of fractured shale-like stones. Its crumbly texture allows vine roots to dig deep into the earth, which helps alleviate water stress and contributes to the resilience of the vine. Then there’s Pietraforte, a dense sandstone with a high limestone content, imparting a strong mineral backbone and an elegance to the tannins that shows especially well in age-worthy bottling.

On the outskirts of the denomination, younger geological formations such as alluvial, lacustrine, and marine sands make their appearance. While these formations are less common in premium sites, they still play a supporting role in the region’s complex terroir.

Sustainability and Biodiversity

In 2024, the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico took a bold step forward by introducing its Sustainability Manifesto, a comprehensive initiative that outlines 58 targeted directives spanning environmental care, social responsibility, and cultural preservation. This forward-thinking document reflects a growing awareness among producers that sustainability is no longer optional.

A striking 65% of the region is cloaked in woodlands, while vineyards cover less than 15%, and almost 15% by olive groves. This equilibrium between forest, vine, and olive underscores the area’s agricultural diversity and commitment to preserving its rural heritage. 

Over half, 52.5%, of all vineyards are certified organic, with more in the process of conversion or practicing organic methods without formal certification. This makes the region one of Italy’s strongest in terms of organic adoption. Preserving biodiversity is not just a goal but a guiding principle, seen by both producers and the Consorzio as a vital safeguard for navigating the challenges posed by climate change and ensuring that future generations can continue to enjoy the richness of this historic land.

With this as our background, Michaela then led us through a tasting of ten wines, each coming from a different UGA. 

Michaela’s Wine Information and My Wine Tasting Notes

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2016 (UGA Vagliagli)

Min 90% Sangiovese. Second vintage for this wine.

Borgo Scopeto, owned by the Angelini family, is a very historic estate that was recently renovated after being abandoned for about 50 years. The land extends over 70 hectares of different parcels. This Gran Selezione is not from a single vineyard but is a selection of the best grapes from different parcels, meaning the selection can change from vintage to vintage. It is also a selection of the best vintages, as they did not make the wine every year since the first vintage in 2015. The wine is made with at least 90% Sangiovese grapes.  Fermented in stainless steel using selected yeasts. It is aged for 18 months in 10 hectolitre French oak casks, followed by a minimum of 8 months of bottle aging.

It has a medium intensity dull garnet colour with some bricking. Medium intensity aromas of sweet red fruit along with touches of oak and sweet spices.  Dry, medium-minus body, soft, with a light, thin mouthfeel.  Red fruit, a touch of candied cherries and Old World oak flavours.  Lighter tannins that firm up a bit on the finish.  Medium acidity.  Mentium length finishing with red fruit flavours and a touch of pepperiness.  Some tartness and drying tannins on the finish. A delicate wine. –

Castello di Radda Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna il Corno 2018 (UGA Radda)

100% Sangiovese.

This is a cooler area, not just due to altitude (vineyards are typically between 400-550m a.s.l., some upwards of 600m), but because of its proximity to the Monti del Chianti mountain range and extensive forests. Radda is one of the latest ripening UGAs. This wine comes from a single vineyard, Vigna il Corno, specifically chosen for its high presence of this shaly soil mass, which tends to give wines with deeper colour and more structure.

Fermentation takes place over 2 weeks in stainless steel with selected yeast, followed by 1 month of maceration. It undergoes malolactic fermentation in oak barrels. Maturation is for 25 months in new French oak tonneaux, followed by 20 months of bottle aging.

A clear, medium intensity, garnet colour.  Very light aromas of red cherries and black pepper.  Medium body and falvour intensity.  A mix of sweet and tart red fruits along with integrated oak.  Dry with a light, lean mouthfeel.  A little pepper.  Medium-plus length with drying tannins and a mix of tart and sweet red fruit flavours. –

Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Bellezza 2018 (UGA San Casciano)

100% Sangiovese.

San Casciano is in the northwest of Chianti Classico and is the hottest UGA, with some of the earliest ripening wines. It has the second-highest number of planted vineyard hectares after Castellina. It is less forested than other UGAs like Radda and has the highest percentage of land planted to olive trees. Wines from San Casciano tend to be rounder, with softer acidity, upfront and generous fruit, and more gracious tannins, though they still age well.

Castello di Gabbiano is a large, historic estate with an 11th-century castle. This wine comes from a single vineyard called Bellezza.  Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks using indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation occurs right after alcoholic fermentation in oak.  Maturation is for 16 months in a combination of Roverella (Tuscan oak) 5hl/15hl casks plus a portion in French oak barrels. This is followed by 16 months of bottle ageing.

A clear, bright, garnet with faint tawny tones.  The aromas were very faint, almost closed.  Dry, medium-plus body with a lean mouthfeel.  Dried red fruit, oak, pepperiness and a touch of leather.  Subdued flavours.  Medium-minus length. –

Terreno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Asofia 2019 (UGA Greve)

100% Sangiovese.

While much of Greve has Macigno soil at higher altitudes, most vineyards are on Salano formation (Marley clays) along the river valley. There is a big range of styles from cooler areas near the Monti del Chianti mountain range to warmer areas on the fringes. This Terreno wine comes from Macigno soils. Terreno, a 16th-century villa estate, was purchased by the Rooney family from Sweden in 1988 and has been managed by Sophia Rooney since 2015. The estate has vineyards on both Macigno and Salano formation soils. Asofia was the first wine Sophia made, starting in 2010, with the goal of showing the area and being made from 100% Sangiovese. The 2019 vintage was the first accepted at the Gran Selezione level.

Fermentation is in an open vessel for 20 days, using indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation occurs during the winter in oak cask after alcoholic fermentation. Maturation is for 24 months in oak cask. It spends a minimum of 12 months in bottle aging.

This wine has a clear, medium garnet colour with slight bricking.  Faint aromas of dried red fruit and toast.  This wine is dry with a medium body and lean mouthfeel.  Medium acidity and firmer tannins.  Tart red fruit, some red cherries and light oak flavours.

Viticcio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Prunaio 2019 (UGA Montefioralle)

100% Sangiovese.

This UGA is fairly uniform in climate (warm, not hot) and predominantly sits on Alberese soil (high in limestone), giving wines decisive structure and often a tanginess that makes the fruit pop. Viticcio was established in 1964 and was sold in 2015 to the Biba family from Ukraine. The estate covers about 100 hectares, with 30 hectares of vineyards planted. Vineyards are at different elevations, with stonier soils planted with Sangiovese at higher elevations and clay soils with international varieties lower down. The Prunaio wine has been made since 1985. It was elevated to Gran Selezione in 2013 and is a selection from two of the oldest vineyards planted in 1979 via massal selection.

Fermentation is in stainless steel for 25 days at controlled temperature with délestage, using indigenous yeasts. Full malolactic fermentation in wood. Maturation is for 18 months in tonneaux and 12 months in big Slavonian barrels, followed by 6 months of bottle aging.   

This wine has a deeper, dull garnet colour.  Light inteisty, but deep aromas of black fruit and dried red fruits.  Medium-plus body with a smooth, soft, lightly round mouthfeel.  Red fruits and a touch of candied red fruit, along with touches of pepperiness and oak.  Soft tannins.  Medium acidity.  Medium length with medium drying tannins and red fruit on the finish.  Nice.

Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna il Poggio 2020 (UGA San Donato in Poggio)

95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo and Colorino.

The town of San Donato in Poggio sits in the middle of the UGA. It is on the western flank of Chianti Classico, influenced by sea breezes and a northern wind that mitigates heat. Vegetation includes Mediterranean forest, olive trees, and maritime pine trees. Most vineyards are planted between 350 and 400 meters above sea level, contributing to freshness. The soil is described as a “sandwich,” with Alberese soil in the middle and Salano formation (clay marls) and pockets of Petraforte in the northern and southern parts. Castello di Monsanto is located in the southern part of the UGA.

Vigna il Poggio, comes from an area discovered to be Petraforte stone. Fermentation is for 7/8 days at controlled temperature, using indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation in heated stainless steel tanks between December and January.  Maturation is in 38 hl for 18 months, followed by 24 months of bottle aging. 

This wine has a lighter, clear garnet colour.  Light aromas of red fruits and toast.  Dry, medium-plus body with a fuller mouthfeel.  Very flavourful; tart and sweet red fruits, Old World oak, pine, dried red fruits, bramble fruit and leaves.  Medium acidity and tannins.  Medium to medium-plus length.  Red fruit, drying and puckering finish.  An interesting wine.

Riecine Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna Gittori 2021 (UGA Gaiole)

100% Sangiovese.

Gaiole is the largest and most varied UGA, potentially able to be subdivided further. It has a lot of thick, dense forests. There’s a significant change in landscape and wine style from the dense northern part to the open, luminous south. Leaner, brighter wines come from northern, cooler areas, while full, fleshy wines with structure come from lower altitudes.

Riecine was established in 1971. The Vigna Gittori comes from a small, 2-hectare plot overlooking the town of Gaiole. Riecine rented this vineyard for 20 years before buying it, at which point they decided to make a single vineyard Gran Selezione bottling. It is made from a selection from one hectare of the oldest plantings (about 50 years old).  Fermentation is in concrete for 15/18 days with indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation in concrete and tonneau. Maturation is for > 5 years in tonneaux, followed by 6 months of bottle aging.

This wine has a New World style in my opinion.  It has a deep, dull ruby-garnet colour.  Medium-minus intensity aromas of sweet red fruits and red cherries.  Off-dry with medium-plus body and a smooth, soft, round mouthfeel.  Sweet cherries along with pepperiness and light oak on the palate. Medium-plus acidity and light tannins.  Medium-plus length finishing with sweet red fruits and pepperiness.

Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Tenuta Fizzano, Il Crocino 2021 (UGA Castellina)

90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino.

Castellina has the largest extension of vineyards and the highest number of producers among the UGs. Located in the southwest and on the fringes of Chianti Classico, it can get quite warm, but there’s also a large altitude range (130m to 715m a.s.l.).

Rocca delle Macìe, owned by the Zingarelli family, is a large producer that has been a significant supporter in the Vancouver market. It was founded by Italo Zingarelli, who bought the estate in 1973. This wine comes from the Tenuta Fizzano property in Castellina, located right at the border of the zone with a southerly aspect.  

Fermentation plus post-fermentation maceration is in stainless steel for 10-20 days using indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is in concrete vats. Maturation in French oak barrels for 20 months, followed by 12 months of bottle ageing.

This wine has a deep, dull garnet colour.  Medium intenstiy aromas of darker fruit and toast.  Dry, medium-plus body with a smooth, soft mouthfeel.  Almost mouthfilling.  Dark fruit and red fruit, pine and light oak on the palate.  Medium length, lightly drying with some puckering.  A fruity finish.  A fun wine.

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Rancia 2021 (UGA Castelnuovo Berardenga)

100% Sangiovese.

Castelnuovo Berardenga is in the southeast of Chianti Classico. It is warmer than other areas but not as warm as San Casciano and tends to be later ripening than Vagliagli. The Rancia wine actually comes from a little pocket of Alberese soil surrounded by marine sands. It is made from a selection from the higher altitude vineyards or plots of the Rancia site. The Rancia has been produced since 1983 as a wine and was elevated to Gran Selezione in 2021. 

Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks for 16-20 days at controlled temperature and using selected and indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel vats. Maturation is for 18-20 months in French oak barriques, followed by a minimum of 6 months bottle aging.

It has a medium intensity, dull garnet colour.  Quite aromatic; Red fruits and lots of Old World oak aromas.  Nice nose.  Fullery body, dry with a soft, round mouthfeel.  Bright red fruit, Old World Oak and red cherries on the palate.  Medum-plus acidity and light tannins. Medium-minus length with red fruits and oak.  Drying tannins and some tartness on the finish. –

Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo 2021 (UGA Panzano)

100% Sangiovese. 

Panzano is in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone and has a well-developed identity, with a history of growers associating together. Almost all producers in Panzano are organic certified or converting, and it has the highest density of vineyard plantings. Fontodi is owned by the Manetti family, who have been in the terracotta business since the 1600s and bought the property in 1968. The Vigna del Sorbo was produced since 1985 and was one of the first wines promoted to Gran Selezione. Originally, it had some Cabernet Sauvignon but has been 100% Sangiovese since 2012. Fontodi is an organic wine producer.

Fermentation is in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is in French oak barrels. Maturation is for 1 year in French oak barrels (30% new) and 1 year in French oak casks, followed by 6 months of bottle aging. 

This wine has a deeper, dull garnet colour.  LIght aromas of red fruit and Old World oak.  Dry, medium-plus body with a lightly round, smooth mouthfeel.  Lots of fruit flavour with red fruits, tart red fruits, and touches of toast, oak, red cherries, and pepperiness. Medium-plus acidity and light tannins.  Medium length finishing with drying, medium intensity tannins and tart red fruits.

Buying These Wines

All these wines, except for the Viticcio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Pruniao 2019, has a wine agent in BC.  I have not checked where each wine is being sold, but check the BC Liquor stores website first, followed by private wine stores, like Everything Wine and Marquis Wine Cellars.

Thank you to the Consulate General of Italy in Vancouver and Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico for the invitation to attend this masterclass.