I was fortunate to be invited to a Chianti Classico Masterclass led by Jason Yamasaki, the Chianti Classico Ambassador in BC. Jason spoke to us about the history of the Chianti Classico region, the grape used and the different quality levels of Chianti Classico. As this was such a wide-ranging masterclass, I am dividing it up into two sections. In this article, I will cover the history, and grape varieties used, touch on the DOCG quality pyramid, and review a basic Annata tier of Chianti Classico wines. In the second article, I will talk specifically about the Riserva and Gran Selezione wines and the 11 Unità Geografiche Aggiuntives (UGAs).
Some Historical Background and the Chianti Classico Zones
In 1716, the Tuscan Grand Duke Cosimo III, established for the first time in history the borders of the production area for Chianti Classico in Italy. It covers the area between Siena and Florence and covers 70,000 hectares, but the area occupied by vineyards is only 7,000 hectares. “Chianti Classico” should not be confused with “Chianti”, which is a separate denomination that surrounds Chianti Classico. In 2010 a law banned the production of Chianti DOCG wines within the production zone of the Chianti Classico DOCG wines. This area of 7,000 ha is quite small. Even a region we think of as being small, Burgundy, has 25,000 ha planted in grapes.
The original Chianti Classico recipe was created in 1872 by Barone Ricasoli. At the time Canaiolo was the dominant grown grape, but the Barone championed the Sangiovese grape as a grape that gave a wine vigour and bouquet and said Canaiolo can be added in small quantities to soften Sangiovese. In 2006 white grapes were disallowed from being added to the blend.
In 1924 there was the creation of the Consortium for the Protection of Chianti wine and its Mark of Origin; the trademark chosen was the Black Rooster. You will see the black rooster on the necks of all bottles of Chianti Classico. The term “Classico” was added by ministerial decree to distinguish the original Chianti from the wine made outside the territory delimited in 1716. In 1984 Chianti Classico obtains DOCG status
(Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin). In 2013 the assembly of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico members approves a set of changes to production regulations leading to an authentic revamping of the denomination, establishing Gran Selezione.
In June 2021, as approved by their Members’ Assembly, the production zone for Chianti Classico will be apportioned into tighter subdivisions with more homogenous characteristics, known as Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGA), or Additional Geographical Units. The 11 UGAs that make the Chianti Classico DOCG area are now defined as San Casciano, Castellina, Gaiole, Greve, Montefioralle, Lamole, Panzano, Radda, Vagliagli, Castelnuovo Berardenga, and San Donato in Poggio. Each UGA is distinguished by a combination of unique natural attributes (soil composition, microclimate, the position of the vines, etc) and human factors (cultural background, local traditions, and community ethos). At the moment the UGAs will apply only to the Gran Selezione wines but will eventually extend to all levels of Chianti Classico wines. More to follow in my next article.
Chianti Classico Blend
Chianti Classico can be made with 100% Sangiovese grapes, but it is allowed to be blended with other red grapes, either indigenous or international. There must be at least 80% Sangiovese if a blend is made. The other 20% can be made of the indigenous grapes Canaiolo, Colorino, Mammolo, Malvasia Nera, Pugnitello, or Foglia Tonda, and/or the international grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, or Petit Verdot. No white grapes are allowed in the production of Chianti Classico since 2006. No international grapes for Gran Selezione.
Chianti Classico Quality Pyramid
In 2013 the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico members approved their 3-tier quality pyramid of Chianti Classico wines. The basic wine is Chianti Classico Annata, although you will likely never see the word “Annata” on the label. One step up is the Chianti Classico Riserva, followed by their top tier, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.
Typical Aroma and Flavour Profile of Chianti Classico
When you open a bottle of Chianti Classico, in general, you can say that the wine will be fresh and fragrant with primarily red fruit aromas, although you can also get cherries, plums and other dark fruits. There can also be a floral tone, such as violets on the nose and palate. The wine is usually lighter coloured, but some do get a quite dark garnet. Any spiciness would come from oak barrel ageing. Tannins are usually not overly strong, meaning that you get a wine that has a nice balance between fruit, tannins, and acidity.
Jason provided us with a slide on recent vintages. The better vintages to purchase, in my opinion, are 2015, 2016, 2019, and 2020.
My Wine Tasting Notes
All these wines are available at BC Liquor stores.
ROCCA DELLE MACÌE Chianti Classico Famiglia Zingarelli 2020, CASTELLINA (BC $19.99) – a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo. 6-10 months in oak. Lighter garnet colour. Light aromas of red fruit and liquorice. Light body and mouthfeel. Medium acidity. Some minerality. A mix of sweet and tart red fruit, plus a touch of dried herbs. Tannins get stronger with swirling. 
RICASOLI Chianti Classico Brolio 2020, GAIOLE (BC $29.99) – a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino. 9 months in 2nd and 3rd use tonneaux. Medium-plus garnet colour. Light intensity deep red fruit aromas. Medium-plus body, round and smooth with medium acidity and fine tannins. Darker riper red and black fruit flavours. 
SAN FELICE Chianti Classico San Felice 2020, CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA (BC $23.99) – a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino and 10% Pugnitello. 10-12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. Light aromas of red cherries and dark fruit, along with a touch of toast. Medium body, round with a light mouthfeel. Bright red fruit flavours, but then with air you also get some smokiness and dark fruit flavours. I also picked up some minerality on the palate. Red fruit and cedar on the finish. Dry tannic finish along with tart acidity. –
ISTINE Chianti Classico Istine 2019, RADDA (BC $34.99) – an organic wine. 100% Sangiovese. 12 months in large Slavonian oak and concrete tanks. Deeply coloured. Medium-intensity nose with red fruits and floral aromas. Medium-plus body, smooth with light tannins. Bright red fruit and juicy red cherry flavours. Medium length. More tart fruit than tannins on the finish.
ISOLE E OLENA Chianti Classico Isole e Olena 2019, SAN DONATO IN POGGIO (BC $43.99) – a blend of 82% Sangiovese, 18% Canaiolo and other varieties. 12 months in oak barrels. Medium intensity clear garnet colour. A very light red fruit nose. Angular mouthfeel. Bright tart red cherries, light sweet spices, toast, and a bit peppery. Red cherries on the finish. The wine does soften with air. Needs some time ageing for full enjoyment. –
ROCCA DI MONTEGROSSI Chianti Classico Rocca di Montegrossi 2020, GAIOLE (BC $35.99) – an organic wine made with a blend of 91% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, and 2% Colorino. 11 months in oak. A very deep garnet colour. Light candied fruit, black fruit and oak on the nose. Medium body, roundish, but quite high acidity. Tart red berries and a hint of floral. A bit astringent mouthfeel. Tart red cherries on the finish.
FONTODI Chianti Classico Fontodi 2019, PANZANO (BC $44.99) – an organic win made with 100% Sangiovese grapes. 18 months in oak barrels. A deeper garnet colour. Cedar, red fruit and cinnamon aromas, are very sexy. Medium-plus body, dry, smooth and silky mouthfeel. Medium-minus acidity. Candied red fruit and red cherry flavours. Medium length with drying tannins. – 
Watch for Part 2 of my article on Chianti Classico Riserva and Gran Selezione wines. Cin cin.
