Comparing Coastal Pinot Noir From California and British Columbia

It’s not often that I have a chance to try coastal Pinot Noir from two different geographic regions and compare the differences, if any, between the wines.  I had the chance to compare Vancouver Island’s Blue Grouse Estate Winery‘s Pinot Noir with two Pinot Noirs from California, by La Crema and Cambria Estate.  Here are my tasting notes that I previously published, followed by some research into the two different regions and then the differences I noticed.

My Wine Tasting Notes

La Crema Monterey Pinot Noir 2022 (BC $32.99)

Winemaker’s notes, “Fruit is cold soaked at 48ºF for 3-5 days. Fermented in open top tanks, punched down 3 times per day during active fermentation. Post-fermentation, free run was transferred to tank for one night of settling before racking to new and used French oak barrels.”

La Crema Monterey Pinot Noir 2022 with wine in glass
La Crema Monterey Pinot Noir 2022 with wine in glass

Appearance: A medium-intensity, consistent translucent garnet colour from the rim to the core.
Nose: Quite aromatic.  Medium-plus intensity aromas of smoky toasty raspberries, red plums, plus red fruit and sweet spices.  No changes to the aromas after decanting, other than being slightly lighter in intensity.
Palate: This wine is dry, but has a fruity sweetness.  Red fruit, raspberries, and red cherries flavours along with light integrated smoky toastiness.  It is medium-plus bodied, with a smooth, soft and round mouthfeel.  Almost mouth-filling.  Medium acidity and light tannins.  There is also a hint of violets and some candied red cherries with air. Same fruit flavours after decanting but are a bit tarter toward the finish.
Finish: Medium-plus length finishing with light tannins.  Smoky, tasty red fruit, a touch of candied cherries and some pepperiness on the finish.  A tarter red fruit finish after decanting.

A tasty, easy to enjoy wine with lots of fruit flavours and a nice, soft texture.  No need to decant.

Rating: 4 stars4.5 stars This wine has a medium-intensity, consistent translucent garnet colour. Aromas of smoky toasty raspberries, red plums, plus red fruit and sweet spices. It is dry but has fruity sweetness. Red fruit, raspberries, and red cherries flavours along with light integrated smoky toastiness. Smooth on the palate.  A medium-plus length.

Cambria Estate Winery Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 (BC $46.99 on sale till June 1/24)

This is Cambria’s flagship red wine sourced from a single vineyard. From the winery, “Julia’s Vineyard, named for Julia Jackson in 1986, consists of ancient soils with fossilized seashells, shale, limestone and sand, with fog swept vines that have endured since the 1970s.”  Winemaker’s notes, “100% destemmed; 100% stainless steel fermented in open top tanks, 5-day cold soak. 100% barrel aged for 8-1/2 months in French Oak (22% new).”  The winery uses 56% Clone 4, 20% Clone 667, 13% Clone 23, 7% Clone 2A, and 4% Clone 115 for this wine.

Cambria Estate Winery Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 with wine in glass
Cambria Estate Winery Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 with wine in glass

Appearance: A clear, slightly deeper translucent garnet colour, compared to the La Crema Pinot Noir.
Nose: Medium intensity, darker aromas of ripe red fruit, red cherries, dried herbs, light oak toastiness, and sweet spices. The aromas were lighter after decanting, mainly red fruit, toast and sweet spices.  Maybe an extra long decant will bring back the aroma strength.
Palate: Like the La Crema, this wine is dry but has fruity sweetness.  You get sweet cherries and darker, riper red fruit flavours, plus sweet spices.  This wine has a medium-plus body and smooth on the palate, but does have a medium tannic backbone for some structure.  I also pick up dried herbs and a touch of oak on the palate.  This wine has some nice acidic tension.  With decanting, you get the same flavours, the wine continues to be smooth, but the tannins become lighter and softer in strength.
Finish: The flavour fades quickly but then lingers for a while.  It finishes with flavours of red fruit, sweet cherries, and toast, plus a touch of pepperiness.  Medium tannins on the finish. The wine length does not fade as quickly after decanting and you get a drier finish.  Mainly red fruit and cherry flavours on the finish.

I preferred the undecanted version as it had stronger aromas and more tannic structure.  

Rating: 4.5 stars This wine has a clear, slightly deeper translucent garnet colour.  It is dry but has fruity sweetness.  Sweet cherries and darker, riper red fruit flavours along with dried herbs.  Medium tannins and nice acidic tension.  Flavours fade quickly on the finish but then lingers for a longer time.

Blue Grouse Estate Winery Reserve Pinot Noir 2021 (BC $75.99)

From the winery, “…our inaugural Pinot Noir—a blend of tradition and innovation. Crafted through foot-treading, clay aging, and sourced from two esteemed Cowichan Valley sites…aged in barrel for 18 months.”  Only 50 cases were produced. 

Blue Grouse Estate Winery Reserve Pinot Noir 2021 with wine in glass
Blue Grouse Estate Winery Reserve Pinot Noir 2021 with wine in glass

Appearance: A clear, translucent to the core, medium-intensity garnet colour.
Nose: Medium intensity, pretty aromas with a strong cinnamon scent followed by red cherries and lesser amounts of raspberries and cranberries. Same aromas after decanting, but the cinnamon is a bit lighter and there is now a hint of vanilla.
Palate: This wine is dry and medium-bodied with a smooth, round, soft mouthfeel.  Fine, light tannins and medium acidity.  Red fruit flavours mainly, with lesser amounts of red plums, sweet spices, floral, and oak. Bright fruit flavours. There is more floral flavour after decanting, plus I now pick up cranberries on the mid-palate.  The wine is also a tad fuller-bodied.
Finish: A medium-plus length finishing with red fruit, plum and floral flavours.  Just a touch of cinnamon.  Mouthwatering acidity to the end.  Light fine tannins on the finish. After decanting the wine finishes with slightly stronger tannins and you can add a touch of cranberry flavour.

A pretty, elegant, delightful Pinot Noir.  You can enjoy it with or without decanting.

Rating: 4.5 stars5 stars  A clear, translucent to the core, medium-intensity garnet colour. Medium intensity, pretty aromas with a strong cinnamon scent followed by red cherries and lesser amounts of raspberries and cranberries. This wine is dry and medium-bodied with a smooth, round, soft mouthfeel. Red fruit flavours mainly, with lesser amounts of red plums, sweet spices, floral, and oak.  Medium-plus length.

Pinot Noir Differences

Before discussing the differences in aromas and flavours of these three wines, we should understand geographically where they are located and how this affects the amount of sunlight, heat, and rainfall they receive.  Soil type is also important.

Locations

La Crema Winery (orange pin) is located in the Russian River Valley, specifically in the Sonoma County region of California, USA. The approximate latitude and longitude coordinates for La Crema Winery are 38.4889° N latitude and 122.9957° W longitude.  The vineyard(s) for this wine though are in Monterey AVA which is about 150 km south of winery.

Cambria Estate Winery (red pin) is situated in the Santa Maria Valley, which is part of Santa Barbara County, California, USA. The approximate latitude and longitude coordinates for Cambria Estate Winery are 34.9197° N latitude and 120.4202° W longitude.

Blue Grouse Estate Winery (blue pin) is located on Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. The approximate latitude and longitude coordinates for Blue Grouse Estate Winery are 48.6895° N latitude and 123.7378° W longitude.

Cambria Estate Winery is the furthest south of the three wineries with La Crema Winery being 397.53 km north of Cambria and Blue Grouse Estate Winery being 1533.52 km north of Cambria.  

Growing Degree Days

The development of grapes from flowering till harvest depends on Growing Degree Days. Growing Degree Days (GDD) is a measure used in viticulture to assess the heat accumulation during the growing season, which influences grape ripening. It’s calculated by summing the daily mean temperatures above a certain threshold, typically 10°C (50°F), over a specified period.  With these three wineries being separated by hundreds of kilometers, their GDD values should be different. The approximations for GDD for the regions where these wineries are located:

La Crema Winery: has a Mediterranean climate with warm, dry summers. The average number of Growing Degree Days for La Crema Winery would be around 2500-3000 GDD per year.  The Monterey AVA for this wine also has approximately the same GDD per year.

Cambria Estate Winery: benefits from a cooler climate influenced by ocean breezes. The average number of Growing Degree Days for Cambria Estate Winery would be around 2000-2500 GDD per year.

Blue Grouse Estate Winery: has a cooler maritime climate. The average number of Growing Degree Days for Blue Grouse Estate Winery may be lower, would be around 1500-2000 GDD per year.

With Blue Grouse having the lowest GDD, I would expect this wine to be the lightest in body, showing more tart red fruit flavours, while La Crema would have the fullest body with riper red cherry and plum flavours, and Cambria Estate with ripe red fruit flavours, but not quite as full-bodied as from La Crema. 

The Growing Season

The two California wines are from the 2022 season while the Vancouver Island wine is from the 2021 growing season.  Here is some background information on the growing season for both these areas.

California

The 2022 growing season for red wine grapes in California was generally favourable but varied across different regions. Overall, it was characterized by warm temperatures and relatively dry conditions, although some areas experienced challenges such as water shortages due to ongoing drought conditions.

The warm temperatures during the growing season helped to promote ripening and flavour development in the grapes, contributing to potentially high-quality fruit. However, vineyard managers had to closely monitor irrigation practices to ensure that vines received adequate water without over-stressing them or wasting resources.

Vancouver Island

The 2021 growing season started with a cool rainy spring. During the summer months, Vancouver Island had a few major rain events that required attention, but overall the number of GDD (due to a heat dome) was up over the previous year.  Harvest started a little later in the Fall, and snow in October influenced smaller yields. Harvest started about 10 days earlier than usual.

Soil Types

La Crema Winery (Russian River Valley, California): The Russian River Valley is known for its diverse soil types, including Goldridge sandy loam, Sebastopol sandy loam, and Huichica clay loam. These soils are well-draining and contribute to the unique terroir of the region.  The Monterey AVA, also has sandy loam, but also alluvial deposits and decomposed granite.

Cambria Estate Winery (Santa Maria Valley, California): The Santa Maria Valley is characterized by ancient marine sedimentary soils, such as botella clay loam and river bench gravelly loam. These soils are rich in minerals and contribute to the distinctiveness of wines from this region.  

Blue Grouse Estate Winery (Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada): Vancouver Island’s soil types vary widely, but common ones include glacial till, loam, and sandy soils. In the Cowichan Valley where Blue Grouse Estate Winery is located, you may find a mix of gravelly, sandy loam soils that are well-suited for grape growing.

The influence of soil on the flavours and aromas of Pinot Noir wine is complex and multifaceted. Here is a general overview of the potential flavour and aroma contributions of the soil types found in these regions:

Loam/Granite/Alluvial (Monterey AVA, California): Sandy loam offers good drainage and aeration, which encourages deep root penetration. Grapes grown in sandy loam soils tend to have balanced water retention, preventing excessive vine vigour. This balance can lead to wines with pronounced fruit flavours, bright acidity, and moderate tannins.

Granite-derived soils are known for their low fertility and excellent drainage. Grapes grown in these soils often produce wines with concentrated flavours, high acidity, and notable minerality. The mineral character can add complexity and depth to the wine, contributing to its overall profile.

Alluvial deposits are typically a mix of sand, silt, and clay, deposited by rivers over time. They often offer good water retention while maintaining adequate drainage. Grapes grown in alluvial soils can exhibit a wide range of aromas and flavours, depending on the specific composition and location within the AVA. However, they often contribute to wines with balanced fruit expression, moderate acidity, and silky tannins.

Botella Clay Loam (Santa Maria Valley, California): Botella clay loam soils tend to produce wines with intense fruit flavours and soft, velvety textures. Pinot Noir wines grown in this soil may display aromas of dark cherry, plum, and baking spices, with a hint of earthiness. The clay content in the soil can contribute to the wine’s richness and depth.

Glacial Till and Loam (Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada): Soils in the Cowichan Valley, where Blue Grouse Estate Winery is located, can vary from gravelly to sandy loam. Pinot Noir wines from this region may exhibit a diverse range of flavours and aromas, including red and black fruit notes such as strawberry, blackberry, and cranberry, along with subtle herbal and mineral undertones. The cooler climate and maritime influence in this region can contribute to wines with vibrant acidity and elegance.

Rainfall

La Crema Winery (Russian River Valley, California): The Russian River Valley typically experiences a Mediterranean climate with dry summers. During the spring and summer months (April to September), rainfall is relatively low, with most precipitation occurring in the winter months. On average, La Crema Winery may receive around 1-3 inches (25-75 mm) of rainfall during the spring and summer periods.  

The rainfall in the Monterey AVA is also minimal, but it receives coastal morning fog to supplement the limited rains.

Cambria Estate Winery (Santa Maria Valley, California): The Santa Maria Valley benefits from a cool, maritime climate influenced by ocean breezes. While summers are dry, there can be some fog and marine layer influence. During the spring and summer months, Cambria Estate Winery might receive slightly higher rainfall compared to La Crema Winery, with an average of 2-4 inches (50-100 mm) of rainfall during this period.

Blue Grouse Estate Winery (Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada): Vancouver Island has a temperate maritime climate with mild, wet winters and relatively dry summers. Compared to the California wineries, Blue Grouse Estate Winery may receive more rainfall during the spring and summer months due to its northern location and proximity to the Pacific Ocean. On average, it may receive around 3-6 inches (75-150 mm) of rainfall during this period.

Blue Grouse Estate Winery appears to receive the most rainfall earlier in the growing season, but it is not much more than the other two wineries.  To make up for the minimal rainfall, these wineries may use drip irrigation to make up any deficits.  So I can’t make any comments about these wines regarding rainfall amounts. 

Winemaker’s Influence

A winemaker’s vinification and maturation methods can also influence the resultant wine.  Long barrel aging can impart more oakiness to the wine and tannic structure, and allowing for malolactic fermentation can add more roundness and lower the tart acidity in a wine. Picking time can also affect the level of acidity and tannins in a wine.

All three wines were aged in oak barrels. Malolactic fermentation was probably undertaken, but there was no information from checking the winery websites.

Comparing the Wines

With all this background information, how do these three wines compare?

As mentioned above, with Blue Grouse having the lowest GDD, I would expect this wine to be the lightest in body, showing more tart red fruit flavours, while La Crema would have the fullest body with riper red cherry and plum flavours, and Cambria Estate with ripe red fruit flavours, but not quite as full-bodied as from La Crema. 

The weather appears to be a bit hotter in 2022 for California, compared to 2021 for Vancouver Island, which would contribute to riper fruit flavours and a fuller body.  

The soils would indicate I should get ripe red fruit such as cherry and raspberry, along with floral notes like violet for La Crema Winery. I noted cherry and raspberry aromas and flavours, plus floral flavour for the La Crema wines. The wine has a medium-plus body, indicative of warmer, riper conditions.

The soil for Cambria Estate wine indicates I should detect dark cherry, plum, and baking spices aromas, intense fruit flavours and soft textures on the palate.  I picked up darker, riper red fruit flavours along with dried herbs and a smooth mouthfeel. This wine also had a medium-plus body.

The soil for Blue Grouse Estate Winery indicates I should detect red and black fruit notes such as strawberry, blackberry, and cranberry, along with subtle herbal and mineral undertones. I noted red fruit flavours mainly, with lesser amounts of red plums, sweet spices, and floral. Plus the wine had a medium body.

So overall the GDD, weather and soils seem to be indicative of the wines I tasted from these three wineries.  It was quite an interesting experience and experiment.

Thank you to, Brent Gushowaty, @BCPinotNoirInfo, for messaging me on my original post and providing me with some additional things I should discuss.

Author: mywinepal
Drink Good Wine. That is my motto and I really want to help you drink good wine. What is good wine? That can be a different thing for each people. Food also loves wine so I also cover food and wine pairings, restaurant reviews, and world travel. Enjoy life with me. MyWinePal was started by Karl Kliparchuk, WSET. I spent many years with the South World Wine Society as the President and then cellar master. I love to travel around the world, visiting wine regions and sharing my passion for food & wine with you. Come live vicariously through me, and enjoy all my recommended wines.